Stop 14 Kirkmichael Mileometer at 33 miles
Little more than 25 years ago there was very little left of Kirkmichael church. There was no roof and the walls were held up by timber buttresses but even those sturdy beams could not stop the building looking as if on the point of imminent collapse. It looked every one of its 600 plus years.
That such a small disused church with no congregation and in a very remote location has been restored so faithfully and beautifully is testament to herculean efforts by a handful of dedicated individuals and the support of many trusts and public bodies.
It is an enchanting and incredibly important historic site. The church itself looks like two buildings joined together and each part has a separate entrance. They are in fact the remaining two parts of a larger building with the third section long ago demolished. The larger part was the chancel where many of the great and good of the surrounding area were buried. After the Reformation this practice was disapproved of, so this part was separated and continued to be used as a mausoleum while the congregation met for worship in the nave.
There are some remarkable pre-Reformation tombstones both in the mausoleum and still in situ in the graveyard. It is interesting to see the difference in grave design and decoration before and after this momentous schism in the church of the day. The Kirkmichael Trust have some wonderful interpretation panels and a brilliant website. If you have enjoyed your visit, I hope you consider making a wee donation to their ongoing conservation work.
From Kirkmichael we are going to head back towards Beauly. Turn back on to the main road and go right. This road will take you through a few scattered farming townships before you pass through Culbokie. At around 43 miles you will come to the main A9 where you turn right towards Wick, then immediately left on a road signposted to Easter Kinkell. Three miles further on you will come to another main road- the A835 - where you turn right towards Ullapool then immediately left on a road signposted for Muir of Ord and Beauly. Continue on this road and when you reach a T junction you turn left, signposted for Fortrose and Cromarty then a quick right turn marked for Beauly. This takes you back round past the Black Isle Showground and when you come to another T junction turn left for Beauly. Park close to the Downright Gabbler and press stop 15.